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Fort Baker, Golden Gate National Recreation Area ::
Fort Baker, a former U.S. Army Military Reservation, is now a premium park within the G.G.N.R.A.'s Marin Headlands. Located at the southeast corner of the Marin peninsula, this Fort has commanding views of Golden Gate, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and Angel Islands, San Francisco Bay, and the San Francisco skyline. In 1937, Golden Gate Bridge opened, connecting San Francisco to Marin County, its new U.S. Route 101 cut through the original Fort Baker effectively creating an East and West Fort Baker. At the north (Marin) end of the bridge are the two most popular vista points of Fort Baker. Just to west of the bridge and the highway is the highest, Battery Spencer, accessible from both directions of U.S. Route 101, and the bridge level North Vista Point on the east side, accessible only from the northbound direction of the bridge. (Both vista points have public restrooms.)
Nestled between the hills to the east of U.S. Route 101 is the true heart of Fort Baker. In this sublime location are the old historic buildings of the Fort, many over a hundred years old, some have received considerable restoration. Some later, not so historic, 1950s cinder brick buildings have been razed and new modern Cavallo Point Lodge buildings now discretely occupy the original footprints of the semi-old buildings.
A walking or biking tour of old Fort Baker will still find a few old wood buildings that have past their useful days, and then some. Old concrete artillery fortifications like Battery Yates (the bunkers but not the old guns) are still in place. The new U.S. Coast Guard Motor Lifeboat Station Golden Gate occupies a spot on Horseshoe Bay (aka Horseshoe Cove) and there is a public fishing pier there. However, public restroom facilities near the fishing pier are somewhat basic.
Also on Horseshoe Bay is the Travis Marina and the open to the public Mike's Place (Travis Grill) where a hamburger and a "libation" are available. Very laid back, nice view, but unfortunately Mike's Place has only limited hours. Weekends are best. There is still some work that needs to be done around Horseshoe Bay and that would include the buildings at the Travis Marina.
Congress did not endow the G.G.N.R.A. with nearly enough funds to turn all the inherited old military units into pristine and safe national parks. When the U.S. military relinquishes an installation, it almost always passes it on "as is." So was the case with Fort Baker and other properties that were passed on to the Nation Park Service's Golden Gate National Recreation Area. G.G.N.R.A. works with its partners and concessionaires to accomplish the much needed improvements. Mountains of good things can be said for G.G.N.R.A. Superintendent Brian O'Neil's "stewardship investment strategy" and his artful juggling talents to make it all work so well with G.G.N.R.A.'s many partners.
Some amazing (and extremely costly) restoration work has been done, especially on the buildings around the Parade Field. The new Cavallo Point - the Lodge at the Golden Gate and its Murray Circle Restaurant are prime examples of a seriously upscale renovations that went far beyond the pale to preserve the Fort's history and appearance while offering wonderful accommodations. The Murray Circle Restaurant was just awarded its first Michelin star. We found the food there to be excellent, the service outstanding and thankfully NOT pretentious. Portions are moderate, we were told the chef recommends that we order three items for each person. Dinner reservations are a must, Lodge guests receive first consideration at the restaurant, as they should of course.
The Farley Bar, named for the late Phil Frank's comic strip character Farley, the bar is found in the same building as the Murray Circle Restaurant. The bar is said to have a separate menu from the restaurant.
Fort Baker Weather ::
While the weather can be seasonal, it also can be unpredictable. The Golden Gate is the meeting place of ocean fog and California's Central Valley heat. Often the fog bypasses Fort Baker but covers the San Francisco skyline, Alcatraz Island and more. Be advised, think layering, just in case.
Fort Baker Flora ::
Expect lush green grasses in the early spring, turning to very dry golden grasses after our rain stops. The eucalyptus tree is an imports from Australia, the Monterey Cypress is from California's Monterey peninsula, both were planted by the Army. The U.S. west has Poison Oak. It can cause a contact dermatitis with a very uncomfortable rash and accompanying blisters. You won't see this plant in the developed areas of Fort Baker but hikers may find it growing along old roads, embankments, trails, at the base of trees, and in fence rows. Get to know this plant's habits and color phases and avoid it.
Access and Privacy ::
 Vehicle access to the Cavallo Point Lodge and the Murray Circle Restaurant is controlled. Valet parking is available.
Battery Cavallo is closed to the public because the endangered mission blue butterfly.
Vehicle access to the road under northern approach to the Golden Gate Bridge (Moore Road) is closed because of Homeland Security considerations. Bicycles do have access though.
The road along the east side of Lime Point Bluff is closed. This area was originally closed because fifty years of paint chips and scrapings from the Golden Gate Bridge covered the old road. Unfortunately, the paint chips contained lead. Today, the Bridge Distict uses environmentally friendly paint but now the road stays closed because of Homeland Security considerations.
Useful Links ::
Golden Gate National Recreation Area
G.G.N.R.A., Fort Baker: Publications
Cavallo Point - the Lodge at the Golden Gate
Dinning at Murray Circle, Reservations
Bay Area Discovery Museum
Presidio Yacht Club (Mike's Place)
Historic California Posts: Fort Baker
Cultural Landscape Report for Fort Baker, G.G.N.R.A. (PDF)
This July 2005 Report has almost 140 pages. It is a must read for folk with insatiable curiosities.
Fred Smoot & Patty Sokolecki-Smoot
Sausalito, California
2008
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